Buy only big flat flints (at least 1" square) sharp enough to cut your thumb.

Cut either a jaw leather (from scrap) or jaw lead (from sheet lead) to hold the flint.

The position of the flint varies with the individual gun: Charlevilles generally go upside-down (long edge uppermost) while Besses take flints rightside-up. You'll have to experiment with your gun.

Cut a notch in the middle-back of the leather or lead so it can snuggle against the screw.

Wrap the jaw leather or lead around the backside of the flint, and lightly screw it into the jaw (doghead).

EASE the flint forward until it rests on the frizzen. Slide it sideways so it hits fully on the frizzen BUT the corners don't nick the barrel or flashguard.

For a knapping hammer, buy a small tack hammer from any hardware store or dollar store. $1 - $5.

Knap the flint gently with a small hammer, striking straight DOWN (towards the pan) to tap off projections and square up the front edge.

Once the flint is square to the frizzen and not dinging anywhere, screw it down very tight (so it won't fly out).

Knap the flint AGAIN to make it razor thin and sharp. It should be sharp enough to cut skin.

Test fire ONCE: you should get a "shower of sparks", then don't waste sparks after that.

Scrub your frizzen with as much sandpaper as necessary until it's bright and shiny, or it won't spark.

Lastly, wipe flint, frizzen, and pan with rubbing alcohol to remove oil and dirt.

While shooting, wipe the flint and frizzen after every third shot with a rag tied to your belt.

Carry a spare flint, leather, and screwdriver in a pouch for the field.

Keep a bottle of rubbing alcohol (any grocery store or drugstore) and clean rags in your shot box. Or soak a rag in alcohol and carry it in a plastic baggie.

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